Anhydrous cosmetic makeup composition containing a fatty phase

ABSTRACT

An anhydrous cosmetic makeup composition contains in addition to a fatty phase formed from oils, fatty bodies and surfactants, and optionally waxes, a vesicular lipidic phase that contains at least one ionic or nonionic amphiphilic lipid and optionally additives. The anhydrous composition also preferably contains at least one cosmetically and/or dermopharmaceutically active material. In the presence of an aqueous phase these compositions release vesicles of the vesicular lipidic phase and potentialize the activity of the cosmetically and/or dermopharmaceutically active material of the composition.

This application is a continuation of application Ser. No. 09/630,957,filed Aug. 2, 2000, now U.S. Pat. No. 6,319,508, which in turn is acontinuation of application Ser. No. 07/954,362, filed Sep. 29, 1992,now abandoned entire content of which is hereby incorporated byreference in this application.

The present invention relates to anhydrous cosmetic makeup compositionscomprising a fatty phase and a cosmetic treatment process using thesecompositions.

Known anhydrous cosmetic compositions comprise a fatty phase containingmineral or organic oils, fatty bodies, surfactants intended to provide ahomogeneous phase and, most often, waxes. Dyes and pigments are addedwhen it is desired that the anhydrous composition be colored.

Anhydrous cosmetic makeup compositions, such as a lip rouge, an eyelidshadow, a molded complexion foundation, and a molded cheek rouge, haveas a principal purpose the application of dyes and pigments to the skin,in an even, homogeneous and durable manner.

Moreover it is known to employ cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceuticalcompositions which function to treat the skin on topical applicationthereto.

The exigencies of modern life have necessitated efforts to simplifycosmetic treatments by using cosmetic compositions having severalfunctions thereby reducing the number of required cosmetic treatmentoperations.

These efforts have involved the introduction in the anhydrous makeupcompositions of cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical active materials. Tothis end, efforts have been made to introduce lipophilic activematerials which can be dissolved in the fatty phase of the anhydrouscompositions. This fatty phase often contains a large amount of wax andits absorption by the skin or the mucous membrane is very limited.Consequently, the effectiveness of the active materials, which is afunction of the penetration of the fatty phase in the skin, is alsoquite limited.

Consideration has also been given to introducing water-soluble activematerials. However, their introduction requires costly technologicalmeasures such as the lyophilization of the active materials, then theirmicrodispersion in the fatty phase or the incorporation of the activematerials in solid supports such as microspheres or microcapsules andthen their dispersion in the fatty phase. In this latter case, theamount of active material that can be introduced is limited because theincorporation of solid supports, containing the active materials,modifies in a significant manner the mechanical properties of theanhydrous compositions.

Thus, until now, the problem of introducing cosmetic and/ordermopharmaceutical active materials into anhydrous cosmeticcompositions has not been resolved in a satisfactory manner.

This problem also exists in the case of anhydrous cosmetic products suchas deodorant sticks and anhydrous anti-circle compositions.

On the other hand, it is known that certain ionic or non-ionicamphiphilic lipids and certain mixtures of amphiphilic lipids arecapable, on contact with an aqueous phase, of forming vesiclesconstituted by more or less spherical lamina of the vesicular lipidicphase, encapsulating an aqueous phase.

In a known manner additives can be introduced into the vesicular lipidicphase to improve the stability and the permeability of the resultingvesicles. These additives can be sterols, and in particular, cholesterolor dicetylphosphate.

In the present application and in the claims, the term “provesicularlipidic phase” designates amphiphilic lipids capable of formingvesicles, mixtures of ionic and/or nonionic amphiphilic lipids capableof forming vesicles and amphiphilic lipids or mixtures of amphiphiliclipids containing additives to improve the stability and permeability ofthe resulting vesicles.

It is well known that these vesicles already possess, in themselves, acosmetic activity on topical application but especially that they permitthe encapsulation of water-soluble and liposoluble cosmetic and/ordermopharmaceutical active materials in the lipidic and/or aqueousphase. The preparation of vesicles from amphiphilic lipids and their usein cosmetics are, for example, described in French application2,315,991.

Moreover it is known from FR A 2,416,008, that the lipidic vesicles canbe lyophilized and that after lyophilization these vesicles retain theirtreating characteristics. From this one conclusion would be to introducelyophilized liposomes and/or niosomes into anhydrous cosmetic makeupcompositions. But this operation is complicated and costly on theindustrial level, for it requires producing vesicles from amphiphiliclipids, lyophilizing them in the presence of anti-agglomerating agentsand/or cyroprotectors having no particular advantage for cosmeticcompositions, and then to incorporate them at an elevated temperature ina complex cosmetic product containing melted oils and waxes.

According to the present invention the applicants have found that theprovesicular lipidic phase, capable of forming vesicles in the presenceof water, retains its ability to form vesicles when it is mixed with afatty phase, generally employed for the production of anhydrous cosmeticcompositions, which fatty phase contains organic and/or mineral oils,fatty bodies, and most often, waxes and surfactants.

In effect, as shown in the comparative examples given below, that aftercontact with water, the formation of vesicles in the aqueous phase ofsatisfactory quality and significant quantity is observed. Moreover, itis noted that the resulting vesicles retain their capacity toencapsulate hydrophilic and/or lipophilic active materials and thatunder these circumstances the effectiveness of the active material,introduced into the anhydrous composition, is very clearly improved.

It was not obvious to the skilled artisan that when the provesicularlipidic phase, capable of forming vesicles in the presence of water, wasmixed with the fatty phase, employed in the production of anhydrouscosmetic makeup compositions, it would again be possible by mere contactwith an aqueous phase, to form vesicles therein. In particular, it wasfeared that, when the provesicular lipidic phase which is constituted ofa mixture of ionic amphiphilic lipids and/or non-ionic amphiphiliclipids or amphiphilic lipids combined with one or more additives, thecombination of these different compounds, which can be required for theformation of vesicles in a stable form, would be destroyed by the oils,fatty bodies, waxes and the surfactants contained in the fatty phase ofthe anhydrous cosmetic product.

According to the present invention this discovery is utilized in theproduction of anhydrous cosmetic compositions containing in the fattyphase, a provesicular phase capable of forming vesicles on contact withwater, these anhydrous cosmetic compositions being contacted with anaqueous phase at the time of their use to cause the formation ofvesicles.

It is necessary to note that the contact with an aqueous phase is mostoften inherent in the method of application of these anhydrous cosmeticcompositions.

For example, lip rouges are contacted with the labial mucous membrane,which is rich in water, and which is regularly moistened by the saliva;molded complexion foundations, eyelid shadows or cheek rouges are oftenhydrated just before application using a wet sponge; deodorant sticksare applied to the skin which is moistened by sweat secretions.

The present invention thus-relates to an anhydrous cosmetic compositioncomprising a fatty phase which is characterized by the fact that thefatty phase contains a provesicular lipidic phase containing at leastone amphiphilic lipid capable of forming vesicles on contact with anaqueous phase.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition contains a water-soluble and/orliposoluble cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical active material.

The amount of the provesicular lipidic phase containing the amphiphiliclipids can represent from 0.1 to 30 percent by weight of the anhydrouscomposition, preferably from 1 to 20 percent.

In the provesicular lipidic phase, the amphiphilic lipids employed canbe any amphiphilic lipid known for the production of vesicles in thepresence of water. These lipids are, in a known manner, amphiphiliclipids of natural or synthetic origin, ionic or nonionic, having, permolecule, one or more long chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear orbranched hydrocarbon chains, having preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms.These chains are, for example, oleic, lanolic, tetradecylic,hexadecylic, isostearylic, lauric or alkyl phenyl chains, and one ormore hydrophilic groups taken from hydroxyl, etheroxide, carboxyl,phosphate and amine groups.

Preferable ionic amphiphilic lipids include natural phospholipids (forexample, egg lecithin or soy lecithin or sphingomyelin), syntheticphospholipids (for example, dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine orhydrogenated lecithin). Amphoteric lipids having two lipophilic chainsor a combination of two organic ions having a long chain of oppositesigns can also be employed, as can anionic lipids.

Among the ionic amphiphilic lipids mention can be made of those whichare described in Luxembourg parent application 85 971, filed on Jun. 23,1985, and which are represented by the formula:

wherein

R₁ represents C₇-C₂₁ alkyl or alkenyl,

R₂ represents a C₇-C₃₁ saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, and

M represents H, Na, K, NH₄ or a substituted ammonium ion derived from anamine and, principally a hydroxylated amine.

Preferable nonionic amphiphilic lipids include those containing, ashydrophilic groups, polyoxyethylenated or polyglycerolated groups, orgroups derived from esters of polyols oxyethylenated or not, or evenhydroxyamide derivatives. Advantageously, the nonionic amphiphiliclipids are selected from the group consisting of:

(1) linear or branched polyglycerol derivatives having the formula

R₃C₃H₅(OH)O_({overscore (n)})H  (II)

wherein

—C₃H₅(OH)O— is represented by the following structures taken separatelyor in admixture:

—CH₂—CHOH—CH₂O—,

{overscore (n)} has a statistical average value ranging from 1 to 6,

R₃ represents:

(a) a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chaincontaining from 12 to 30 carbon atoms; or hydrocarbon radicals oflanolin alcohols;

(b) R₄CO wherein R₄ is a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing11 to 29 carbon atoms; and

(c) R₅OC₂H₃(R₆) wherein R₅ has the meaning (a) or (b) given for R₃;—OC₂H₃(R₆)— is represented by the following structures taken separatelyor in admixture:

wherein R₆ has the meaning (a) given above for R₃,

(2) polyglycerol ethers, linear or branched, having two fatty chains;

(3) polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols;

(4) polyoxyethylenated sterols and phytosterols;

(5) ethers of polyols;

(6) esters of polyols oxyethylenated or not and, in particular, estersof polyoxyethylenated sorbitol;

(7) glycolipids of natural or synthetic origin, for example thecerebrosides;

(8) polyglycerolated α-diols;

(9) hydroxyamides represented by the formula:

wherein

R₇ represents a C₇-C₂₁ alkyl or alkenyl radical,

R₈ represents a saturated or unsaturated C₇-C₃₁ hydrocarbon radical;

COA represents one of the following two groups:

(a)

wherein B is a mono or polyhydroxylated alkyl derived from a primary orsecondary amine and R₉ represents hydrogen, methyl, ethyl orhydroxyethyl, and

(b) COOZ wherein Z represents the residue of a C₃-C₇ polyol; and

(10) the ethers and esters described in French patent application 9013139 filed on Nov. 14, 1990 and having the formula

wherein

A represents —OR or

wherein R represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, and

n is 2 or has a statistical average value {overscore (n)} greater than 1and at most 6.

Preferably R represents a C₇-C₂₂ linear alkyl, a C₇-C₃₆ branched alkyl,a C₁₈ alkenyl or alkylaryl having a linear or branched C₇-C₁₆ alkylchain. In the alkyl aryl radical, the aryl group is, preferably, phenyl.The alkenyl radical advantageously is an octadecene-9 yl or anoctadecanediene-9,12 yl group.

In a known manner, various additives can be combined with theamphiphilic lipids to modify their stability and permeability. In thisregard mention can be made of the optional addition of long chainalcohols and diols; sterols such as, for example, cholesterol andβ-sitosterol; long chain amines and their quaternary ammoniumderivatives; hydroxyalkylamines; polyoxyethylenated fatty amines; estersof long chain aminoalcohols, their salts and quaternary ammoniumderivatives; phosphoric esters of fatty alcohols in free or neutralizedform such as, for example, sodium dicetylphosphate and alkyl sulfatessuch as, for example, sodium cetyl sulfate; ionic derivatives ofsterols; and certain polymers such as polypeptides and proteins.

As explained above, in accordance with the invention, there can beintroduced into the fatty phase, cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceuticalactive materials. According to the present invention, only activematerials known to have a cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical activityon topical application and capable of being encapsulated in amphiphiliclipid vesicles can be employed.

Representative lipophilic active materials include, principally, vitaminE, esters of vitamin E, polyunsaturated fatty acids, vitamin F,sunscreen agents, antioxidants, preservatives, vitamin A, retinoic acidand its esters.

Representative water-soluble active materials include, preferably, thosewhich permit, on admixture with the provesicular lipidic phase theproduction of anhydrous lamellar phases, such as glycerol, sorbitol andother polyols having a close structure. Also useful are amino acids suchas arginine, lysine, proline and serine; vitamins such as D,L-panthenol;and sunscreen agents.

In a known manner the fatty phase comprises fatty bodies such as cocoabutter and oils. Representative oils capable of being employed inaccordance with the invention include, particularly:

mineral oils such as paraffin oil, petrolatum oil and oils having aboiling point between 310 and 410° C.,

oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene,

vegetable oils such as sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil, palm oil,avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, ricin oil and cereal germ oils, suchas wheat germ oil,

silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxane,

synthetic esters such as purcellin oil, butyl myristate, isopropylmyristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate,hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, isocetylstearate, decyl oleate, hexyl laurate, propylene glycol dicaprylate anddi-isopropyl adipate,

organic alcohols such as oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, lanolenicalcohol, isostearyl alcohol and octyl dodecanol, and

esters derived from lanolic acid such as isopropyl lanolate and isocetyllanolate.

Other oils that can also be employed include acetyl glycerides, theoctanoates and decanoates of alcohols and polyalcohols, such as those ofglycol and glycerol, ricinoleates of alcohols and polyalcohols such asthose of cetyl.

Most often waxes are also employed and representative waxes, employed inthe present invention, include:

mineral waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes andpetrolatum waxes,

fossil waxes such as ozokerite, montan wax,

waxes of animal origin such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax,derivatives of lanolin such as lanolin alcohols, hydrogenated lanolin,hydroxylated lanolin, acetylated lanolin, lanolin fatty acids, andacetylated lanolin alcohol,

waxes of vegetable origin such as candelilla wax, Carnauba wax, andJapan wax,

hydrogenated oils, solid at 25° C., such as hydrogenated ricin oil,hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow and hydrogenated cocoa oil,

fatty esters, solid at 25° C., such as propylene glycol monomyristateand myristyl myristate.

Among other waxes, mention can be made of cetyl alcohol, stearylalcohol, mono-, di- and triglycerides solid at 25° C., stearicmonoethanol amide, colophane and its derivatives such as glycol andglycerol abietates, sucroglycerides and the oleates, myristates,lanolates, stearates and dihydroxystearates of calcium, magnesium, zincand aluminum.

Pigments are introduced when the cosmetic composition must be colored.

Generally there are also added surfactant agents such assuccinylglycerides, alkylphosphates, esters of fatty acids such aspolysorbates sold under the trade name “TWEEN” by ICI Americas andesters of polyethyleneglycol such as those sold under the name “BRIJ”,by ICI.

The anhydrous cosmetic composition, according to the invention, isprepared by mixing the various components. Preferably, the materialsconstituting the fatty phase and the materials constituting theprovesicular lipidic phase are mixed separately. Then the resulting twophases are mixed until a homogeneous preparation is obtained. In thislatter case the cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical active materials arepreferably introduced into the-provesicular lipidic phase.

The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetictreatment of the skin characterized by the fact that the anhydrouscosmetic composition, described above, is applied to the skin, thecosmetic composition being in contact with an aqueous phase when it isapplied to the skin.

According to the invention, the contact of the anhydrous cosmeticcomposition with an aqueous phase can be effected just beforeapplication of the composition onto the skin. In this situation thecomposition can be removed with a wet sponge and the composition isspread on the skin using this sponge.

Contact can also be effected by spreading the composition on skinpreviously moistened either with saliva or perspiration, or by the watercontained in the mucous membranes, or using an aqueous phase derivedfrom an external source.

Contact can also be effected after application of the anhydrous cosmeticsubstance. In this case also, the aqueous phase can be constituted byperspiration or saliva or provided from an external source.

The objectives, characteristics an advantages of the present inventionwill appear more clearly from the examples given below as anillustration and without any limitation.

EXAMPLE 1 Comparison

(1) Preparation of a fatty phase a having the following composition

Polybutene  5.04 g Lanolin oil 20.38 g Octoxy glyceryl behenate 20.38 gStearyl heptanoate  9.84 g Jojoba oil  9.84 g Ricin oil 19.20 gButylhydroxytoluene  0.06 g Butylhydroxyanisole  0.06 g Microcrystallinewax  7.60 g Polyethylene 500 70.60 g

The mixture of the various compounds above is effected at a temperaturebetween 100 and 120° C. with stirring, using a bar magnet, until a wellhomogenized preparation is produced.

(2) Starting with this Fatty Phase A the Following Various Compositionsare Prepared:

Composition A1: (not containing a provesicular lipidic phase butcontaining a liposoluble active material)

1% of α-tocopherol acetate, which is a liposoluble active material ismixed with 99% of the fatty phase A defined above.

Composition A2: (containing a nonionic provesicular lipidic phase but noliposoluble active material)

(a) A provesicular lipidic phase having the following composition isprepared by comelting at 100° C. under nitrogen: a nonionic amphiphiliclipid having the formula

C₁₆H₃₃OC₃H₅(OH)O_({overscore (n)})H  (V)

wherein

—C₃H₅(OH)O— is represented by the following structures, taken inadmixture or separately:

{overscore (n)} has a statistical average value 4.75 g equal to 3cholesterol 4.75 g dicetyl phosphate 0.5 g

(b) composition A2 is prepared by mixing 90% of fatty phase A and 10% ofthe above-described provesicular lipidic phase.

Composition A3: (containing a nonionic provesicular lipidic phase andcontaining a liposoluble active material)

(a) A provesicular lipidic phase having the following composition isprepared by comelting at 100° C. under nitrogen:

nonionic amphiphilic lipid having 4.75 g formula V cholesterol 4.75 gdicetyl phosphate 0.5 g α-tocopherol acetate 1 g

(b) Composition A3 is prepared by mixing 89% of the above fatty phase Awith 11% of the above-described provesicular lipidic phase. CompositionA3 then contains 1% of α-tocopherol acetate.

Composition A4: (containing an ionic provesicular lipidic phase and notcontaining a liposoluble active material)

Employing the same process as that used for producing composition A3, acomposition A4 is prepared and comprises:

90 weight percent of fatty phase A

10 percent of a vesicular lipidic phase constituted of 6% of soylecithin sold under the trade name “LECINOL S 10” by Nikko, and 4% ofphytosterol oxyethylenated with 5 moles of ethylene oxide, sold underthe trade name “GENEROL 122 E5” by Henkel.

Composition A5: (containing an ionic provesicular lipidic phase and aliposoluble active material)

Using the same process as that employed in producing composition A1,composition A5 is prepared and consists of 89% of fatty phase A and 11%of a provesicular lipidic phase consisting of 6% of “LECINOL S10”, 4% ofphytosterol oxyethylenated with 5 moles of ethylene oxide sold under thetrade name “GENEROL 122 E5” by Henkel and 1% of α-tocopherol acetate.

(3) Comparative Tests

A 1 g film of each of compositions A, A1, A2, A3, A4 and A5 is depositedin a Petri dish and then covered with 10 g of water.

The dish is hermetically sealed, then stirred in a shaking machine for24 hours at ambient temperature.

After 24 hours, the aqueous phase is recovered and weighed. A firstaliquot portion of this resulting aqueous phase is recovered andobserved with a phase contrast microscope. A second aliquot portion ofthis aqueous phase is lyophilized and then taken up in a solvent(chloroform). The dosage of the vesicular lipids (V) and cholesterol orphytosterol is effected by high performance thin layer chromatography(HPTLC) after carbonization, the reading of the plates being made on aShimadzu densitometer. The dosage of the α-tocopherol acetate is made byhigh pressure liquid chromatography (HPLC).

The results are given in Table I, below.

TABLE 1 Weight ratio Amount of (V)/chole- Amount cholesterol sterol orof α- Result of Compo- Amount of or phytost- tocopherol microscopesition lipid (V) phytosterol* erol (%) in % examination  A** 0    0    —0 no vesicles  A1* 0    0    — 0 no vesicles A2 5% 5% 50/50 0 numerousvesicles A3 6% 6% 50/50 1.5 numerous vesicles A4 8% 8% 60/40 0 vesiclesA5 8% 6% 60/40 3 vesicles *dosed relative to the initial amountdeposited in the Petri dish **not part of the invention

The results given above show that when the fatty phase of an anhydrouscosmetic composition is added to a provesicular lipidic phase, it ispossible, on contact with an aqueous phase, to release, in this aqueousphase, vesicles having the same composition as the provesicular lipidicphase added and that, if there is introduced into the composition aliposoluble active material, the latter is also released in the aqueousphase with the vesicles formed. The mere mixing of the liposolubleactive material with the fatty phase does not release the α-tocopherolin the aqueous phase.

The chromatography dosage techniques employed in this example are asfollows:

HPTLC dosage technique.

On a 60 Merck silica gel plate without fluorescence indicator, 20 μl ofthe sample or standard are deposited. The standardization range iseffected from 0.5 mg/ml to 3 mg/ml. Migration is made in a vertical tankwith an 80/20 chloroform/methanol mixture. Detection is made bypulverization with HSO at 20% in water, then carbonization at 170° C.for 5 minutes. The reading is made on a Shimadzu densitometer at:

400 nm for cholesterol,

470 nm for the nonionic amphiphilic lipid of formula (V) and theoxyethylenated phytosterol (GENEROL 122 E5), and

530 nm for hydrogenated lecithin, sold under the trade name “LECINOLS10” by Nikko.

HPLC dosage technique of α-tocopherol acetate.

Column type RP 18 (5 μm) Lichrosorb quality sold by Merck Eluant puremethanol Flow rate  1.5 ml/mm λ 280 nm Injection  10 μl

The standards and samples are in solution in chloroform.

EXAMPLE 2 Comparison Composition Prepared Starting with a Lip RougeFatty Phase

(1) Preparation of the Compositions

As in Example 1 a base B is prepared having the following composition:

Polybutylene  5.04 g Lanolin oil 20.38 g Octoxy glyceryl behenate 20.38g Stearylheptanoate  9.84 g Jojoba oil  9.84 g Ricin oil 19.20 gButylhydroxytoluene  0.06 g Butylhydroxyanisole  0.06 g

and to which are added, so as to obtain fatty phases, various amounts,set forth in Table II below, of polyethylene wax, sold under the tradename “POLYWAX 500” by Bareco, and microcrystalline wax.

To the resulting fatty phases two provesicular lipidic phases are added.

Provesicular lipidic phase (1) has the following composition:

nonionic lipid of formula (V) 47.5 g described in Example 1 cholesterol47.5 g dicetylphosphate  5.0 g

Provesicular lipidic phase (2) has the following composition:

“LECINOL S10” 60.0 g cholesterol 30.0 g palmitoylcollagenic acid, sold10.0 g by Rhone-Poulenc under the trade name “LIPACIDE PCO”

The two provesicular lipidic phases are prepared by comelting thecomponents at 100° C. under nitrogen.

Optionally glycerine, which is a water-soluble active material, is addedby premixture with the provesicular phase.

Compositions B1 to B9 are thus obtained, the compositions of which aregiven in Table II below:

TABLE II Mixture wt for wt Mixture wt for wt of glycerine and ofglycerine and provesicular provesicular Microcrystalline Polyethylenewax lipidic phase (1) lipidic phase (2) Compositions Base B in g wax ing in g Glycerine in g in g in g  B1* 78.0 8.50 8.50  5.0 0 0  B2* 72.88.60 8.60 10.0 0 0  B3* 67.7 8.65 8.65 15.0 0 0 B4 73.8 8.10 8.10 10.0 0B5 65.5 7.25 7.25 20.0 0 B6 54.8 7.60 7.60 30.0 0 B7 73.8 8.10 8.10 010.0 B8 65.5 7.25 7.25 0 20.0 B9 54.8 7.60 7.60 0 30.0 *not a part ofthe invention

(2) Comparative Tests

A 1 g film of each of fatty phases B1 to B9 is deposited in a Petridish, then covered with 10 g of water. The dish is hermetically sealedand then agitated on a shaker machine for 24 hours at ambienttemperature. After 24 hours the aqueous phase is recovered and weighed.

Dosage of the glycerine is effected enzymatically using the Kit Sigma337 A.

The results are given in Table III, below

TABLE III Amount of glycerine dosed in the aqueous phase, in % of theComposition initial amount Potentialization (1)  B1*  8  B2* 10  B3*  7B4 43 B4/B1: X5.4 B5 59 B5/B2: X5.9 B6 86  B6/B3: X12.3 B7 20 B7/B1:X2.5 B8 31 B8/B2: X3.1 B9 42 B9/B3: X6   *Not part of the invention (1)Potentialization is the increase factor of the amount of active materialreleased in the water relative to compositions not containing theprovesicular lipidic phase.

The results achieved in this example show that the inventionpotentializes the release of the glycerine in an aqueous environment,whatever the nature of the provesicular lipidic phase employed and theglycerine concentration in this phase.

The dosage of the glycerine according to the Sigma protocol of the KitNo. 337 is effected using the reagent defined below according to thereactions:

Glycerol+ATP GK _(>)G-I-P+ADD

G-I-P+O₂ GPO _(>)DAP+H₂O₂

H₂O₂+4AAP+ESPA PDA _(>)colored quinoneimine+H₂O

ATP—Adenosine Triphosphate

GK—Glycerol Kinase

GIP—Glycerol 1 phosphate

ADP—Adenosine 5′-diphosphate

GPO—Glycerol phosphate oxydase

DAP—Dihydroxyacetone phosphate

4-AAP—4 aminoantipyrine

ESPA—Sodium N-ethyl-N (3-sulfopropyl)m-anisidine

POD—Peroxydase

The reading is made at 540 nm.

The reagent employed has the following composition:

ATP 0.375 mmol/l Magnesium salt 3.75 mmol/l SodiumN-ethyl-N-(3-sulfopropyl) 2.11 mmol/l m-anisidine Glycerol kinase 1.250U/l Glycerol phosphate oxydase 2500 U/l Peroxydase 2500 U/l Buffer pH 7

As a comparison, the dosage of a blank and various samples is effectedin the following proportions:

Blank Sample Reagent 3 ml 3 ml Sample — 0.01 ml Water 0.01 ml —

The calculation of the concentration is made relative to the opticaldensity of a known standard.

EXAMPLE 3 Comparison Complexion Foundation Released From Ionic LiposomesCharged with Glycerine or Sorbitol

(1) Preparation

The fatty phase C having the composition given below is produced bymixing waxes and oils at 80° C. with stirring until a homogeneousmixture is obtained. The pigments and fillers are added always at 80° C.and with stirring until a homogeneous color is obtained. The remainderof the components are added and the temperature is maintained at 80° C.for 2 hours with stirring.

The resulting fatty phase C has the following composition:

Microcrystalline wax 4 g Carnauba wax 6 g Octyl palmitate 14 gHydrogenated polyisobutane 17.6 g Trilaurin 7 g Propyl paraben 0.1 gIron oxide (yellow) 4.9 g Iron oxide (brown-yellow) 1.9 g Titaniumdioxide 16.5 g Iron oxide (black) 0.7 g Zinc oxide 3.0 g Benzophenone-30.5 g Octyl methoxycinnamate 0.5 g Dimethicone, sold under the tradename 0.3 g “SILBIONE 70047 V300” by Rhone Poulenc Nylon, sold under thetrade name 8.0 g “L'ORGASOL 2002 Natural EXTRA COS” by Ato Mica 15.0 g

Starting with this fatty phase C, the below compositions are produced,on mixture, in various amounts, of glycerine or sorbitol with aprovesicular lipidic phase consisting of a mixture of “LECINOL S10” andan oxyethylenated phytosterol (GENEROL 122 ES), in a 60/40 weightproportion, at a temperature of 80° C. with stirring for 1 hour.

LECINOL S10/ Fatty phase Glycerine Sorbitol phytosterol Composition C inG in g in g 60/40 in g C1 100 — — — C2 95 5 — — C3 95 — — 5 C4 90 5 — 5C5 95 — 5 — C6 90 — 5 5

(2) Tests

These compositions were tested in accordance with the method employed inExample 1:

Operating Procedure:

A 1 g film of each of the bases C1 to C6 is deposited in a Petri dishand then covered with 10 g of water.

The dish is hermetically sealed and then stirred on a shaker machine for24 hours at ambient temperature. After 24 hours, the aqueous phase isrecovered and quantified. Dosage of the lipids is made by HPTLC, theglycerine is dosed enzymatically as described above, and the sorbitol isdosed enzymatically in accordance with the following method.

Dosage Method of the Sorbitol

The method is based on the following reaction:

D-sorbitol+NAD ^(SDH>)Fructose+NADH, H+(SDH=sorbitol dehydrogenase;NAD=nicotinamide dehydrogenase).

Under the test conditions, the reaction is completely displaced to theright. The amount of NADH, H+ formed in the reaction is stoichiometricwith the amount of sorbitol; it is determined by measuring theabsorbance increase at 340 nm.

Reagents—Preparation of the Solutions

Solution 1: pyrophosphate 0.2 M, pH=9.5 Dissolve 8.92 g of Na₄P₂O₇.10H₂Oin 80 ml of distilled water. Adjust to pH 9.5 with 1N HCl then to avolume of 100 ml with distilled water.

Solution 2: Dissolve 40 mg of NAD in 2 ml of distilled water.

Solution 3: Sorbitol dehydrogenase (SDH) Dissolve 2 mg in 500 μl ofdistilled water.

Operating Method

The following solutions are prepared:

Blank Sample Solution 1 1.00 ml 1.00 ml Solution 2 0.10 ml 0.10 mlSample — 0.20 ml Distilled water 1.70 ml 1.50 ml

The reaction is started by adding in each tank 0.05 ml of solution 3.The contents are mixed and the optical densities are read after 60minutes against distilled water at 0.412 λ Abs., −λ Abs. being theabsorbance of the sample less the absorbance of the blank.

The results obtained with the complexion foundation compositions testedare as follows:

TABLE IV Weight ratio Amount of active Formu- Amount of LECINOL materialin the Potentia- lation lipids** S10/phytosterol aqueous phase**lization C1* — — — — C2* — — 12 — C3* 7 60/40 — — C4 6 60/40 78 C4/C2:X6.5 C5* —  8 — C6 6 60/40 49 C6/C5: X6.1 *not part of the invention**dosed relative to the initial amount (%)

The above results show that in the presence of a provesicular lipidicphase, vesicles having the same composition as the lipidic phase arereleased by mere contact with an aqueous environment. On the other hand,it is shown that the formed vesicles potentialize the release ofwater-soluble active materials.

EXAMPLE 4 Preparation of a “Two Way Cake”

A binder L having the following composition is prepared:

Petrolatum oil 56.5 g Ricin oil 10.8 g Petrolatum 10.0 g Isopropylmyristate 7.2 g Oleic alcohol 10.0 g Lanolin 5.5 g

There is also prepared, by comelting at 100° C. under nitrogen, aprovesicular lipidic phase (3) having the following composition:

Nonionic amphiphilic lipid of 47.5 g formula (V) of Example 1Cholesterol 47.5 g Dicetyl phosphate 5.0 g

The fillers, pigments and powders are then added until a homogeneousmixture is obtained. The binder and the provesicular lipidic phasepreviously heated to bring them to the liquid state are added. The wholeis then ground together in order to obtain a homogenous composition.

The “two way cake” obtained has the follows composition:

Talc, sufficient amount for 100.0 g Mica 20.0 g Titanium oxide 5.0 gZinc stearate 2.0 g Nylon powder 5.0 g Iron oxide 2.0 g Octyl dimethylparaaminobenzoate 0.5 g Perfume 0.2 g Preservative 1.0 g Binder L 8.0 qProvesicular lipidic phase (3) 2.0 g Glycerine 2.0 g Vitamin E 0.1 g

This composition is applied to the face by the user with a wet sponge.

We claim:
 1. An anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising: a) alipophilic material mixture comprising a liquid selected from the groupconsisting of hydrocarbon oils, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols andmixtures thereof, and a solid selected from the group consisting offatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, waxes and mixtures thereof; b) ahydrophilic active material; c) optionally, a colorant; and d) at leastone amphiphilic lipid selected from the group consisting of: (1) alinear or branched polyglycerolated derivative having the formulaR₃O—[—C₃H₅(OH)O—]_({overscore (n)})—H  (II)  wherein —C₃H₅(OH)O—represents the following structures taken in admixture or separately:

{overscore (n)} has a statistical average value ranging from 1 to 6, R₃represents: (a) a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphaticchain containing from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, or a hydrocarbon radical ofa lanolin alcohol, (b) R₄CO wherein R₄ is a linear or branched C₁₁-C₂₉aliphatic radical, or (c) R₅—[—OC₂H₃(R₆)—]— wherein R₅ has the meaning(a) or (b) of R₃; —OHC₂H₃(R₆)— represents the following structures takenin admixture or separately:

 wherein R₆ has the meaning (a) for R₃; (2) a linear or branchedpolyglycerol ether having two fatty chains; (3) a polyoxyethylenatedfatty alcohol; (4) a polyoxyethylenated sterol or phytosterol; (5) apolyol ether; (6) a polyol ester oxyethylenated or not; (7) a natural orsynthetic glycolipid; (8) a polyglycerolated α-diol; (9) a hydroxyamidehaving the formula

 wherein R₇ represents a C₇-C₂₁ alkyl or alkenyl radical, R₈ representsa saturated or unsaturated C₇-C₃₁ hydrocarbon radical, —COA represents agroup selected from (i)

 wherein B is an alkyl radical derived from a primary or secondary, monoor polyhydroxylated amine, and R₉ represents hydrogen, methyl, ethyl andhydroxyethyl, or (ii) —COOZ wherein Z represents the residue of a C₃-C₇polyol, (10) an ether or ester having the formula

 wherein A represents —OR or

 wherein R represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical and{overscore (n)} has a value of 2 or is a statistical average value ngreater than 1 and at most equal to 6, (11) a natural or syntheticphospholipid, and (12) an ionic amphiphilic lipid having the formula

 wherein R₁ represents a C₇-C₂₁ alkyl or alkenyl radical, R₂ representsa saturated or unsaturated C₇-C₃₁ hydrocarbon radical and M representsH, Na, K, NH₄ or an ammonium ion derived from an amine.
 2. An anhydrouscosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein said solid is selected from thegroup consisting of microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, petrolatumwaxes, ozokerite, montan wax, beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax, lanolinalcohols, hydrogenated lanolin, hydroxylated lanolin, acetylatedlanolin, lanolin fatty acids, acetylated lanolin alcohol, candelillawax, Carnauba wax, Japan wax, hydrogenated ricin oil, hydrogenated palmoil, hydrogenated tallow, and hydrogenated cocoa oil, propylene glycolmonomyristate and myristyl myristate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol,mono-, di- and triglycerides solid at 25° C., stearic monoethanol amide,colophane, glycol adiebates, glycerol abietates, sucroglycerides,oleates of calcium, magnesium, zinc or aluminum, myristates of calcium,magnesium, zinc or aluminum, lanolates of calcium, magnesium, zinc oraluminum, stearates of calcium, magnesium, zinc or aluminum,dihydroxystearates of calcium, magnesium, zinc or aluminium andpolyethylene wax, and said liquid is selected from the group consistingof cocoa butter, paraffin oil, petrolatum oil, oils having a boilingpoint between 310 and 410° C., perhydrosqualene, sweet almond oil,calophyllum oil, palm oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, ricinoil, cereal germ oils, dimethylpolysiloxane oil, purcellin oil, butylmyristate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate,butyl stearate, hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate,isocetyl stearate, decyl oleate, hexyl laurate, propylene glycoldicaprylate, di-isopropyl adipate, oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol,lanolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, octyl dodecanol, isopropyllanolate, isocetyl lanolate, acetyl glycerides, octanoates of alcohols,octanoates of polyalcohols, decanoates of alcohols, decanoates ofpolyalcohols, ricinoleates of alcohols, ricinoleates of polyalcohol,polybutylene, lanolin oil, octoxy glyceryl behenate, stearyl heptanoate,octyl palmitate, hydrogenated polyisobutane, trilaurin and dimethicone.3. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 1 in the form of a stick.4. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 1 in the form of a liprouge.
 5. An anhyrous cosmetic composition of claim 1 in the form of alipstick.
 6. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein saidhydrophilic active material is selected from the group consisting ofglycerin, sorbitol, an amino acid, a vitamin and a sunscreen agent. 7.An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 6 wherein said hydrophilicactive material is glycerin.
 8. An anhydrous cosmetic composition ofclaim 1 wherein said amphiphilic lipid is present in an amount of from0.1 to 30 percent by weight of the anhydrous composition.
 9. Ananhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 8 wherein said amphiphilic lipidis present in an amount of from 1 to 20 percent by weight of theanhydrous composition.
 10. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 1wherein said liquid is present in said lipophilic material mixture in anamount of from 35 to 47 percent by weight of said anhydrous compositionand said solid is present in said lipophilic material mixture in anamount of from 35 to 43 percent by weight of said anhydrous composition.11. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 10 in the form of a liprouge.
 12. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 10 in the form ofa lipstick.
 13. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 1 whereinsaid hydrophilic active material is present in an amount of from 5 to 15percent by weight of said anhydrous composition.
 14. An anhydrouscosmetic composition of claim 10 wherein said hydrophilic activematerial is present in an amount of from 5 to 15 percent by weight ofsaid anhydrous composition.
 15. An anhydrous cosmetic composition ofclaim 1 wherein said amphiphilic lipid is present in an amount of from 3to 9 percent by weight of said anhydrous composition.
 16. An anhydrouscosmetic composition of claim 10 wherein said amphiphilic lipid ispresent in an amount of from 3 to 9 percent by weight of said anhydrouscomposition.
 17. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 13 whereinsaid amphiphilic lipid is present in an amount of from 3 to 9 percent byweight of said anhydrous composition.
 18. An anhydrous cosmeticcomposition of claim 14 wherein said amphiphilic lipid is present in anamount of from 3 to 9 percent by weight of said anhydrous composition.19. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein saidamphiphilic lipid is present in an amount of from 2 to 7 percent byweight of said anhydrous composition.
 20. An anhydrous cosmeticcomposition of claim 6 wherein said amphiphilic lipid is present in anamount of from 2 to 7 percent by weight of said anhydrous composition.21. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 10 wherein saidamphiphilic lipid is present in an amount of from 2 to 7 percent byweight of said anhydrous composition.
 22. An anhydrous cosmeticcomposition of claim 13 wherein said amphiphilic lipid is present in anamount of from 2 to 7 percent by weight of said anhydrous composition.23. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 14 wherein saidamphiphilic lipid is present in an amount of from 2 to 7 percent byweight of said anhydrous composition.
 24. An anhydrous cosmeticcomposition of claim 10 wherein said amphiphilic lipid is present in anamount of from 3 to 9 percent by weight of said anhydrous compositionand said hydrophilic active material is present in an amount of 5-15percent by weight of said anhydrous composition.
 25. An anhydrouscosmetic composition of claim 10 wherein said amphiphilic lipid ispresent in an amount of from 2 to 7 percent by weight of said anhydrouscomposition and said hydrophilic active material is present in an amountof 5-15 percent by weight of said anhydrous composition.
 26. Ananhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein said solid present insaid lipophilic material mixture contains polyethylene wax.
 27. Ananhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 13 wherein said solid present insaid lipophilic material mixture contains polyethylene wax.
 28. Ananhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 14 wherein said solid present insaid lipophilic material mixture contains polyethylene wax.
 29. Ananhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 15 wherein said solid present insaid lipophilic material mixture contains polyethylene wax.
 30. Ananhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 16 wherein said solid present insaid lipophilic material mixture contains polyethylene wax.
 31. Ananhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 17 wherein said solid present insaid lipophilic material mixture contains polyethylene wax.
 32. Ananhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 18 wherein said solid present insaid lipophilic material mixture contains polyethylene wax.
 33. Ananhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 19 wherein said solid present insaid lipophilic material mixture contains polyethylene wax.
 34. Ananhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein said solid is presentin said lipophilic material mixture in an amount of 15 percent by weightof said anhydrous composition.
 35. An anhydrous cosmetic composition ofclaim 34 wherein said hydrophilic active material is present in anamount of 5 percent by weight of said anhydrous composition.
 36. Ananhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein said liquid is presentin said lipophilic material mixture in an amount of 29 percent by weightof said anhydrous composition.
 37. An anhydrous cosmetic composition ofclaim 34 wherein said liquid is present in said lipophilic materialmixture in an amount of 29 percent by weight of said anhydrouscomposition.
 38. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 35 whereinsaid liquid is present in said lipophilic material mixture in an amountof 29 percent by weight of said anhydrous composition.
 39. An anhydrouscosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein said amphiphilic lipid ispresent in an amount of 3 percent by weight of said anhydrouscomposition.
 40. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 34 whereinsaid amphiphilic lipid is present in an amount of 3 percent by weight ofsaid anhydrous composition.
 41. An anhydrous cosmetic composition ofclaim 35 wherein said amphiphilic lipid is present in an amount of 3percent by weight of said anhydrous composition.
 42. An anhydrouscosmetic composition of claim 36 wherein said amphiphilic lipid ispresent in an amount of 3 percent by weight of said anhydrouscomposition.
 43. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 37 whereinsaid amphiphilic lipid is present in an amount of 3 percent by weight ofsaid anhydrous composition.
 44. An anhydrous cosmetic composition ofclaim 38 wherein said amphiphilic lipid is present in an amount of 3percent by weight of said anhydrous composition.
 45. An anhydrouscosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein colorant is present in an amountof 24 percent by weight of said anhydrous composition.
 46. An anhydrouscosmetic composition of claim 39 wherein colorant is present in anamount of 24 percent by weight of said anhydrous composition.
 47. Ananhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 40 wherein colorant is presentin an amount of 24 percent by weight of said anhydrous composition. 48.An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 41 wherein colorant ispresent in an amount of 24 percent by weight of said anhydrouscomposition.
 49. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 42 whereincolorant is present in an amount of 24 percent by weight of saidanhydrous composition.
 50. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 43wherein colorant is present in an amount of 24 percent by weight of saidanhydrous composition.
 51. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 44wherein colorant is present in an amount of 24 percent by weight of saidanhydrous composition.
 52. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 1wherein said solid present in said lipophilic material mixture containscarnauba wax.
 53. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 39 whereinsaid solid present in said lipophilic material mixture contains carnaubawax.
 54. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 40 wherein saidsolid present in said lipophilic material mixture contains carnauba wax.55. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 41 wherein said solidpresent in said lipophilic material mixture contains carnauba wax. 56.An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 42 wherein said solid presentin said lipophilic material mixture contains carnauba wax.
 57. Ananhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 43 wherein said solid present insaid lipophilic material mixture contains carnauba wax.
 58. An anhydrouscosmetic composition of claim 44 wherein said solid present in saidlipophilic material mixture contains carnauba wax.
 59. An anhydrouscosmetic composition of claim 45 wherein said solid present in saidlipophilic material mixture contains carnauba wax.
 60. An anhydrouscosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein said amphiphlic lipid is aphospholipid.
 61. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 1 whereinthe liquid is a hydrocarbon oil comprising mineral oils, oils of animalorigin, palm oil and mixtures thereof.
 62. An anhydrous cosmeticcomposition of claim 1 wherein the hydrocarbon oil comprises vegetableoils selected from the group consisting of sweet almond oil, avocadooil, jojoba oil, olive oil, ricin oil, cereal germ oils, and mixturesthereof.
 63. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein thehydrocarbon oil is a mineral oil or a lanoline oil.
 64. An anhydrouscosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein the liquid is a fatty alcoholselected from the group consisting of oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol,lanolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, octyl dodecanol, and mixturesthereof.
 65. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein theliquid is a fatty acid ester selected from the group consisting of cetylricinoleate, isopropyl lanolate, isopropyl myristate, isopropylpalmitate, and mixtures thereof.
 66. An anhydrous cosmetic compositionof claim 1 wherein the fatty alcohols are solid and selected from thegroup consisting of cetyl, and stearyl, fatty alcohols and mixturesthereof.
 67. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein thesolid is myristyl myristate.
 68. An anhydrous cosmetic composition ofclaim 1 wherein the liquid is present in said lipophilic materialmixture in an amount of 35-47 percent by weight of said anhydrouscomposition and said solid is present in an amount of 35 to 43 percentby weight of said anhydrous composition, and said composition is in theform of a cosmetic for application to lips.
 69. An anhydrous cosmeticcomposition of claim 1 wherein the solid is a wax selected from thegroup consisting of candelilla, beeswax, carnauba, spermaceti, montan,ozokerite, paraffin, synthetic waxes, microcrystalline waxes andmixtures thereof.
 70. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 1wherein the active material is a moisturizer.
 71. An anhydrous cosmeticcomposition of claim 70 wherein said moisturizer is selected from thegroup consisting of glycerine, panthenol, sorbitol, and mixturesthereof.
 72. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 71 wherein saidmositurizer is glycerin.
 73. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim1 additionally comprising skin conditioning agents, stabilizers,preservatives, and mixtures thereof.
 74. A process for making ananhydrous composition of claim 1 comprising the steps of: a. combine thelipophilic materials in a vessel equipped for heating and mixing; b.heat the lipophilic materials and, optionally, a colorant, and mix untila homogeneous melt forms; c. combine the amphiphilic lipid and polarsolvent in a second vessel equipped for heating and mixing; d. heat themixture from (c) and mix until a melt forms; e. homogenize the melt in(d) and add to the mixture of (b); f. heat the mixture of (e) and mixuntil a homogeneous melt forms; g. cool the melt of (f) until a solidforms.
 75. An anhydrous moisturizing cosmetic composition essentiallyfree of water comprising: a. from 44% to 90% lipophilic materialswherein 50% to 65% is a liquid selected from the group consisting ofhydrocarbon oils, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols and mixturesthereof, from 35% to 50% is a solid selected from the group consistingof fatty alcohols, fatty acids esters, waxes having melting points from55° C. to 110° C., and mixtures thereof; b. from 5% to 15% hydrophilicmoisturizer dispersed in the lipophilic material(s); c. from 0 to 35% ofa colorant; and d. from 0.1% to 30% of an amphiphilic lipid selectedfrom the group consisting of phospholipids, glyceryl monoalkanoates,glyceryl monoalkenoates, polyglyceryl esters, and mixtures thereof. 76.A cosmetic composition according to claim 75 wherein the liquid ispresent in said lipophilic materials in an amount of 35-47 percent byweight of said anhydrous composition and said solid is present in anamount of 35 to 43 percent by weight of said anhydrous composition. 77.A cosmetic composition according to claim 76 wherein the liquid is ahydrocarbon oil comprising mineral oils, oils of animal origin, palmoil, and mixtures thereof.
 78. A cosmetic composition according to claim77 wherein the hydrocarbon oil comprises vegetable oils selected fromthe group consisting of sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil, palm oil,avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, ricin oil, cereal germ oils, andmixtures thereof.
 79. A cosmetic composition according to claim 76wherein the hydrocarbon oil is a mineral oil.
 80. A cosmetic compositionaccording to claim 76 wherein the liquid is a fatty alcohol selectedfrom the group consisting of oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, lanolenicalcohol, isostearyl alcohol, octyl dodecanol, and mixtures thereof. 81.A cosmetic composition according to claim 76 wherein the liquid is afatty acid ester selected from the group consisting of cetylricinoleate, cetyl acetate, isopropyl lanolate, isopropyl myristate,isopropyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
 82. A cosmetic compositionaccording to claim 75 wherein the solid is selected from the groupconsisting of mineral, fossil, animal, synthetic and vegetable waxes,and mixtures thereof.
 83. A cosmetic composition according to claim 72wherein the fatty alcohols are solid and selected from the groupconsisting of cetyl, and stearyl fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.84. A cosmetic composition according to claim 73 wherein the solid ismyristyl myristate.
 85. A cosmetic composition according to claim 82wherein the solid is a wax selected from the group consisting ofcandelilla, beeswax, ozokerite, carnauba, polyethylene wax, and mixturesthereof.
 86. A cosmetic composition according to claim 82 wherein thesolid is a wax selected from the group consisting of candelilla,beeswax, carnauba, spermaceti, montan, ozokerite, paraffin, beeswax,synthetic waxes, microcrystalline waxes and mixtures thereof.
 87. Acosmetic composition according to claim 82 comprising from 14.5% to15.2% wax selected from the group consisting of microcrystalline wax,polyethylene wax, and mixtures thereof.
 88. A cosmetic compositionaccording to claim 75 wherein the moisturizer is selected from the groupconsisting of glycerine, panthenol, sorbitol, and mixtures thereof. 89.A cosmetic composition according to claim 88 comprising from 10% to 15%of a hydrophilic moisturizer.
 90. A cosmetic composition according toclaim 89 comprising from 10% to 15% glycerin.
 91. A cosmetic compositionaccording to claim 89 comprising 10% hydrophilic moisturizer.
 92. Acosmetic composition according to claim 75 comprising from 3% to 9%amphiphilic lipid.
 93. A cosmetic composition according to claim 75additionally comprising skin conditioning agents, stabilizers,preservatives, and mixtures thereof.
 94. A cosmetic compositionaccording to claim 75 in the form of a cosmetic for application to lips.95. A cosmetic composition according to claim 75 wherein the lipophilicmaterials are present in an amount of from 70% to 80% wherein saidliquid is present in said lipophilic materials in an amount of 50% to53% by weight of said anhydrous composition and said solid is present inan amount of 47 to 50 percent by weight of said anhydrous compositionand said amphiphilic lipid is present in an amount of from 5% to 7% byweight of said anhydrous composition.
 96. An anhydrous cosmeticcomposition of claim 1 wherein colorant is present in an amount of 35percent by weight of said anhydrous composition.
 97. An anhydrouscosmetic composition of claim 39 wherein colorant is present in anamount of 35 percent by weight of said anhydrous composition.
 98. Ananhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 40 wherein colorant is presentin an amount of 35 percent by weight of said anhydrous composition. 99.An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 41 wherein colorant ispresent in an amount of 35 percent by weight of said anhydrouscomposition.
 100. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 42 whereincolorant is present in an amount of 35 percent by weight of saidanhydrous composition.
 101. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim43 wherein colorant is present in an amount of 35 percent by weight ofsaid anhydrous composition.
 102. An anhydrous cosmetic composition ofclaim 44 wherein colorant is present in an amount of 35 percent byweight of said anhydrous composition.
 103. An anhydrous cosmeticcomposition of claim 96 wherein said solid present in said lipophilicmaterial mixture contains carnauba wax.
 104. An anhydrous cosmeticcomposition of claim 76, in the form of a cosmetic for application tolips.
 105. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 77, in the form ofa cosmetic for application to lips.
 106. An anhydrous cosmeticcomposition of claim 78, in the form of a cosmetic for application tolips.
 107. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 79, in the form ofa cosmetic for application to lips.
 108. An anhydrous cosmeticcomposition of claim 80, in the form of a cosmetic for application tolips.
 109. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 81, in the form ofa cosmetic for application to lips.
 110. An anhydrous cosmeticcomposition of claim 82, in the form of a cosmetic for application tolips.
 111. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 83, in the form ofa cosmetic for application to lips.
 112. An anhydrous cosmeticcomposition of claim 84, in the form of a cosmetic for application tolips.
 113. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 85, in the form ofa cosmetic for application to lips.
 114. An anhydrous cosmeticcomposition of claim 86, in the form of a cosmetic for application tolips.
 115. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 87, in the form ofa cosmetic for application to lips.
 116. An anhydrous cosmeticcomposition of claim 88, in the form of a cosmetic for application tolips.
 117. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 89, in the form ofa cosmetic for application to lips.
 118. An anhydrous cosmeticcomposition of claim 90, in the form of a cosmetic for application tolips.
 119. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 91, in the form ofa cosmetic for application to lips.
 120. An anhydrous cosmeticcomposition of claim 92, in the form of a cosmetic for application tolips.
 121. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 93, in the form ofa cosmetic for application to lips.
 122. An anhydrous cosmeticcomposition of claim 1 wherein said amphiphilic lipid is present in alipidic phase wherein said phase is present in an amount of 5 percent byweight of said composition.
 123. An anhydrous cosmetic composition ofclaim 34 wherein said amphiphilic lipid is present in a lipidic phasewherein said phase is present in an amount of 5 percent by weight ofsaid composition.
 124. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 35wherein said amphiphilic lipid is present in a lipidic phase whereinsaid phase is present in an amount of 5 percent by weight of saidcomposition.
 125. An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 36 whereinsaid amphiphilic lipid is present in a lipidic phase wherein said phaseis present in an amount of 5 percent by weight of said composition. 126.An anhydrous cosmetic composition of claim 37 wherein said amphiphiliclipid is present in a lipidic phase wherein said phase is present in anamount of 5 percent by weight of said composition.
 127. An anhydrouscosmetic composition of claim 38 wherein said amphiphilic lipid ispresent in a lipidic phase wherein said phase is present in an amount of5 percent by weight of said composition.